Yaxchilan
Nestled within an overgrown jungle enclave on the banks of the Usumacinta River, the ancient Maya city of Yaxchilan may well have lain undiscovered for another two centuries, were it not for the successive discoveries of Juan Galindo (1833) and Edwin Rockstoh (1881). At its height, Yaxchilan was the most dynamic Mayan kingdom within Chiapas State and a major rival to nearby Piedras Negras, Guatemala. Controlling the steady flow of downstream traffic upon the Usamacinta River, Yaxchilan became a power both admired and revered by all who wandered into its realm – an affectation still influencing visitors, even today!
Best known for its rich archaeological treasures, Yaxchilan is arguably one of the 'prettiest' of Mexico's Maya sites. Constructed during the Preclassic period, around 400 A.D, Yaxchilan is unique in that the majority of buildings were created using far smaller boulders – likely sourced from the riverbanks. To this end, most of the buildings have a cobblestone appearance, with evidence of white stucco still clinging to some walls.
Wandering beneath the dense mangrove arboretums of Lacandon Rainforest, you can't help thinking the Maya had a penchant for building towns with a view. From the ascending woodland path up to the first smattering of buildings, you can still catch small glimpses through to the river below. Building 19 (also known as the Labyrinth) forms the modern day entrance point to Yaxchilan, however, you don't have to endure the two tiers of interconnecting corridors to find your way in. Take time to explore the passages of the Labyrinth in detail, since excavations conclude the building was used for practice journeys to other 'realms'. It may seem an uneventful layout, yet more than a few visitors end up in the dead-end basement – allegedly the entrance to the underworld!
Yaxchilan is well known for artistic heritage, mainly in the form of murals and clay pottery excavated from the site in the 1960's. Clustered within a group of buildings South of the main plaza, Red Temple of The River Bank (Building 6) is notoriously popular, since it retains much of its original paintwork and cresting. A small grouping of carved stelae guard the main entrance, inset with scenes depicting the Rain God Tlaloc and possibly Shield Jaguar 5 – one of Yaxchilan's most iconic rulers. Within chamber one, the mythical tales unfold further, with stucco wall murals showing courtiers and Lady Ik-Skull, indulging in the ritual of bloodletting.
Commissioned by Bird Jaguar I during the early years of his reign, Temple 33 really is the highlight of any visit to Yaxchilan. Reached by a series of ascending, carved stairways into the hill, the approach is littered with monumental stelae – including the fallen Stelae 11, illustrating the celebrated Flapstaff Festival (the handing down of the ruler's scepter). Discovering the wealth of art decorating Temple 33 is akin to discovering the treasure chest of a shipwreck – it is by far the most enriched temple at Yaxchilan. On the North side, a series of stone reliefs elaborate the family man that was Bird Jaguar, playing the hardcore Maya ballgame on the steps of the temple. A series of lintels above the three doorways depict the ruler's fiercer personality when it came to matters of the empire, several demonstrating the emperor as he may have looked in full warrior garb. Fierce, yet family orientated, it's perhaps the finest domestic portrayal of a king, to be found anywhere in Mexico!
